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 Post subject: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 14th, 2013, 5:09 pm 
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Wondering if anyone can tell me a ballpark figure for the price per square foot on construction of a new home on pei (August 2013). Just a basic, small "bungalow" style home with standard options.


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 Post subject: Re: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 14th, 2013, 5:22 pm 
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Location: Summerside
$115 to $120 is a fair estimate for a bungalow according to this thread: viewtopic.php?t=26408


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 Post subject: Re: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 15th, 2013, 12:38 pm 
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Joined: December 30th, 2008, 9:41 pm
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Location: Queens County
That is right on the money for a basic no frills bungalow. might stretch the range out to 125 depending on quality of finishes.


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 Post subject: Re: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 19th, 2013, 2:35 pm 
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Joined: November 28th, 2012, 12:17 pm
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Built my 1600 sqf home with double garage (530 sqf) for about $80 per sq foot. This includes everything from the septic, to heating system, to hardware on doors... but of course it does not include labor which I did myself (except plumbing, electrical, and HVAC).

We did not cheap out on anything (plywood rather than osb, high grade kohler windows and doors, 30yr shingles, boston headers, cedar shingles, $4 per sq ft flooring, etc). Likely saved $50 - $60k from sweat equity. I really believe you can build a house for $100 sq/ft (including labor) if you do your research on pricing. Be your own general contractor and it can be even cheaper. Planning, planning , planning


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 Post subject: Re: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 19th, 2013, 2:50 pm 
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Joined: September 17th, 2007, 1:11 pm
Posts: 753
Location: PEI
kewlgolf wrote:
Built my 1600 sqf home with double garage (530 sqf) for about $80 per sq foot. This includes everything from the septic, to heating system, to hardware on doors... but of course it does not include labor which I did myself (except plumbing, electrical, and HVAC).

We did not cheap out on anything (plywood rather than osb, high grade kohler windows and doors, 30yr shingles, boston headers, cedar shingles, $4 per sq ft flooring, etc). Likely saved $50 - $60k from sweat equity. I really believe you can build a house for $100 sq/ft (including labor) if you do your research on pricing. Be your own general contractor and it can be even cheaper. Planning, planning , planning


Congrats on the affordable build!

Can you expand a bit on your sweat equity\ labour?

You did everything except for the plumbing, electrical, and HVAC ? I'm assuming you did the framing, insulating, drywalling, roofing, finishing, forming & pouring foundation\slab?

I'm just trying to get an idea of the sweat equity and skill sets involved?

Finally, did you use a slab or basement? , and type of heating system.

thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 21st, 2013, 12:03 pm 
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Sorry I didn't mention there were a few things which I could have, but did not do. Insulation / Vapor barrier was subbed out as I couldn't even buy the materials for the price they could install it for (in one day). Drywall/Seam filling subbed out as well, just too time consuming and hard to do with one person.

I did a Pressure treated wood foundation (2x8 studs, 12" on Centre, gravel for half the backfill, drain tile, damproofed with foundation coating) The framing allows for R28 insulation which was installed, with VB. Makes a nice warm, dry, and ready to finish basement which costs about the same as concrete. Main factor for a wood foundation is good drainage around it, keeping water away.

Heating with a LG 18,000 btu heat pump upstairs rated for about -20. A propane fireplace as well, and a few small electric panel heaters in the bedrooms. Basement does not require heat, but I may just put a space heater down there.


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 Post subject: Re: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 21st, 2013, 5:13 pm 
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Quote:
I did a Pressure treated wood foundation (2x8 studs, 12" on Centre, gravel for half the backfill, drain tile, damproofed with foundation coating) The framing allows for R28 insulation which was installed, with VB. Makes a nice warm, dry, and ready to finish basement which costs about the same as concrete. Main factor for a wood foundation is good drainage around it, keeping water away.


This intrigues me. What did you do for wood against the dirt side - and for the inside to carry the load of the gravel?

Not sure if I worded that right - but I am seeing in my mind - 3/4" PT plywood (or 1") on the dirt side - with perhaps G1S 1/2 or better on the inside. With your studs in be-tween.

7.5" x 4' of gravel is quite a weight load.

Phil

_________________
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"They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old.
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them".


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 Post subject: Re: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 21st, 2013, 8:07 pm 
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philipw wrote:
Quote:
I did a Pressure treated wood foundation (2x8 studs, 12" on Centre, gravel for half the backfill, drain tile, damproofed with foundation coating) The framing allows for R28 insulation which was installed, with VB. Makes a nice warm, dry, and ready to finish basement which costs about the same as concrete. Main factor for a wood foundation is good drainage around it, keeping water away.


This intrigues me. What did you do for wood against the dirt side - and for the inside to carry the load of the gravel?

Not sure if I worded that right - but I am seeing in my mind - 3/4" PT plywood (or 1") on the dirt side - with perhaps G1S 1/2 or better on the inside. With your studs in be-tween.

7.5" x 4' of gravel is quite a weight load.

Phil

I think you'd find that the gravel is used as backfill, to prevent water from accumulating outside the foundation.

Backfilling with sand or gravel is also a good idea with a concrete foundation. I used sand.

Ed

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 Post subject: Re: Cost of PEI new home construction
PostPosted: August 22nd, 2013, 2:12 pm 
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Only half inch PT plywood on the outside is required if the backfill height is less than ~76" I believe, unless you are using 16" centers, then I would definitely go with the thicker plywood.

Inside is insulated with R28, vapor barrier, and half inch drywall. The basement even has a wood floor with 2x6 PT floor joists spanning between footings. 4" of gravel, poly, and an air space underneath the floor.

It will not draw the moisture like a concrete foundation so feels like a normal living space. Ex-racer is right that the gravel is meant to divert any water straight down to my drain tile and away from the house. I'm not sure how much more weight gravel would be as opposed to the original soil.


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